Our Visit to Assisi – Day 6 – Candelaria Design Tour Italy 2015

Today I gave my travelers a little break. They have been going non-stop since our departure and so today I let them sleep in, enjoy the houses and we only have one stop that being the tranquil and spiritual town of Assisi – the hilltown of St. Francis.

We start the morning by relaxing and enjoying our coffee and view from the country houses along with a visit from the compound cat, Rafeallo. It is definitely a relaxing way to start the day. No fog in the valley below so far as it has been dry. You can hear the occasional distant and faint gunshot as it is hunting season here in Umbria.

We gather our troops and make the one hour and forty minute drive to Assisi. We used to stop in Perugia along the way but it always was a driving and parking fiasco and why add the stress when we have a great parking and rendezvous spot in Assisi.

With our convoy all parked and situated at the top of Assisi we make our way down to the central Piazza which will be our rendezvous spot. From there it is right to the St. Francis Cathedral where we take our group shot and then everyone is free to explore or in our case and several others – grab lunch.

Today it was time for some pizza and we found a gorgeous restaurant with a well appointed room with a nice view of the valley below and Isabel and I dined with Phyllis and Doray.  I was able to get my pizza fix which was delicious.

From there the ladies and my crew took of for a tour of the church and I went and took pictures and found a nice outdoor café with good wifi to do some work at our rendezvous spot. At the same time I was able to say hello to some old friends that gather at the same bench each day. They have been there at that same spot for the last ten years. I thought it was time I join the club. Slowly as the hours went by my travelersgathered over a glass of wine, a beer and/or a gelato. Once all assembled it was time to hike back up the hill to the cars.

With dusk approaching, it is always beautiful to make your way down the hill from Assisi and catch the hilltown in the sun drenched glow from the setting sun. It is so picturesque. We then drove about an hour back to the road to our homes and stopped at the top of the hill in Gasparini for vino and the sunset followed by a nice simple dinner.  Despite the lighter itinerary, everyone was ready to catch up some more on the rest so we made our drive home and fell into our post truffle pasta comas.

Celebrating Isabel’s Birthday at the Villa Piazzano and Cortona - Day 5 – Candelaria Design Tour Italy

Today is our first full day in the country. We all settled into a slower pace, the fresh Umbrian air, and its time to explore Umbria and Tuscany. Now that we are all here, we can consolidate our 8 cars down to 4 cars and with four repeat travelers I have some experienced drivers! Today is also my lovely wife, Isabel’s birthday!!! What a wonderful way to spend her special day!

We fix a little coffee and enjoy the morning view from our terrace. Get a little blogging done, check the emails, and then we all meet at the “Y” in the road between our houses – our rendezvous spot. Down the dusty dirt road we go to the valley below and then we drive about 40 minutes towards Cortona for our stop at the Villa Piazzano.

I love this place with its Italian cypress lined drive in and then the pristine grounds and former Roman Cardinal hunting villas that awaits us. We are welcomed by the friendly staff who always accommodate my group with a fabulous tour of their property showing us the changes and upgrades they seem to make every year, followed by the most divine brunch you could ever imagine out on the terrace now covered by a beautiful shade loggia that has been added.

So the setting is as good as it can possibly get, and then you add the spectacular assortment of delectable treats they have prepared along with a glass of prosecco and you have the start of a beautiful day and birthday for my Isabel. We are met by the proprietors of this immaculate property, Damien Wimpole and his wife Adriana who sit with us and share the stories from all of the years they have operated this magical place. I first came here in 2001 shortly after they opened by simply discovering the property by making the wrong turn in the road. I have been here virtually every year since and this is definitely one of the highlights of our trip. We toasted and sang happy birthday to my lovely bride, took our group photo, and then made our way through the valley and up the hill to Cortona!

Photo by Phyllis Lerner

Cortona is a vibrant Tuscan hilltown somewhat overrun by tourists since the making of the book then movie Under the Tuscan Sun, by Frances Mayes. I still love it though with its narrow streets and perfectly scaled piazzas. We arrived around 2 pm and dinner was not until 7pm so we had five hours to explore or chill and just suck in the spirit and flavor of this medieval hilltown.

Many shopped and explored and several found a spot at a street café for a cappuccino or a glass or two of vino. Others hiked the steep streets or dove into the chocolate fair that was underway in the piazza. The weather was perfect with a fall breeze in the air and as the sun set and the shadows grew long it was time to make our way to dinner at the Trattoria Dardona. I love this little spot and have been coming for years. It’s nothing fancy, but the food and service have always been great and the owner always bestows a bottle or two of lemoncello or this year bayleave cello……wow was that a great digestif’ to finish the evening and Isabel’s birthday day! A nice stroll back to the cars, a quick gelato and then we drove the 40 minutes to our secret spot in the hills of Umbria as we rested for the next day of exploration and adventure in Umbria. 

On the Road to Umbria - Day 4 - Candelaria Design Tour Italy 2015

The trip from Florence to Umbria is always my most stressful. I have to get everyone checked out of the hotel, get their luggage loaded into the transport, and then get everyone back to the airport and the rental car offices, get the cars, get everyone in order, and then drive about 90 minutes down the Autostrada to our country house compound in Umbria.

We check out of the hotel at 11am so that gives us time for a quick trip to the San Lorenzo Market which is one of the best markets in Europe. From meats, to vegetables, to mushrooms, breads, wine, truffles, fish…..it’s endless and one of my favorite stops on the trip. How I wish we had one of these in Arizona. I would probably move in and never leave. Outside on the streets is the Saturday flea market and a great spot to load up on the gifts for the trip.

From here it’s a quick trip back to the hotel and along the way I run into my clients the Novarro’s having breakfast outside of the Savoy Hotel…..it never fails, I always bump into someone on the trip and what fun to find these two!

Pack up and get everyone checked out of the hotel, get the luggage loaded into the transport and head to the rental car office at the airport. Having a car in the city is a huge liability so picking up the cars at the airport makes it simple – two turns and we are on the Autostrada. Of course halfway to the airport one of my travelers realize they left their passport and cash in the hotel safe. No worries, we call the hotel and they have the stash on the next taxi who arrives just minutes after we do at the rental car office.

This year was the fastest and smoothest we have EVER done the transition. Checked out of the hotel and we were on the road in our cars within two hours. Not bad! We get everyone in order, give them a Google Map pin to the village near our homes, and we are off.

The drive to Umbria is beautiful as you drive south of Florence through Tuscany and turn east on the highway to Perugia and then exit at Tuoro go up the hill where we stopped for a beer and a glass of wine and enjoyed the spectacular view of Lake Trasimeno. With the nice respite we head down the backside of the hill into Umbria and the village of Mercatale where there is a nice market where we can stock up on provisions and of course jug wine for the week…. Or night as many times is the case.

With the cars stocked with luggage and groceries we make our way north of Mercatale to our dirt road that takes us up another hill about 2 kilometers to our little Umbrian paradise that we will call home for a week.

The compound consists of three homes, Casa La Pietra, Casa Carina, and Casa La Quercia all tucked in around a lovely negative edge pool nestled in the olive grove and fig trees. I love the reaction when our travelers first arrive. What a transition from the hustle and bustle of the hotel in Florence to the rustic serenity of Umbria.  We also arrive as the sun is setting on the valley of Tuscany below and this year we topped it off with a light sprinkle and a double rainbow over our compound. Talk about impeccable timing.

We settle it, unpack and make our way to the main house, La Pietra, where our host, Elizabeth Wholey and her partner Paolo, prepare us an Umbrian welcome dinner of local meats, salamis, cheeses, and vegetables. It is fabulous and sets the tone for the week in the country.

The pace slows, the stress melts off you shoulders, the farmer’s jug wine begins to flow and we all laugh, tell stories, and watch the setting sun on the hills of Tuscany. We have arrived in heaven. 

Firenze - Day 3 - Candelaria Design Tour Italy 2015

We only have one full day in Florence, and I know that doesn’t sound like a lot of time, and it isn’t. You could spend a week just here in Florence to absorb all the culture, history, architecture, and cuisine. But our trip is about giving the traveler, many who have never been to Italy, a small sampling of all that Italy has to offer so I like to think of it as more of a macro journey than a micro journey. You can get the big picture with this trip and each day is dialed in so no time is ever wasted. You can then come back on your own with a lot more confidence and a lay of the land to really ”micro” experience the places you want to see in greater detail. Imagine going to the Grand Canyon and spending two weeks there and then coming home and telling everyone you saw America.

So with one day in Florence, what do you do? I start the day with my own 7am walking tour of the city. Now of course you are exhausted but why not really take it to the limit and max out the time you are here. I love my early morning walking tour because no one is one the streets at 7am or earlier. The light is amazing and it is a unique way to see and experience the treasures of this place without the thousands of tourists, cars and vespas, and the sounds of pulsating emergency vehicles seemingly always in the background, that incessantly distract you from the real beauty of the city. I usually get 6-8 travelers who will rally from their jet lag to make this walk and capture wonderful photos and take part in this really hard to get experience.

With the walk completed, most of us enjoyed a nice breakfast at the hotel and then some went for a morning power nap while a couple of us made the journey up the Duomo campinelle for a fantastic view while others went to the top of the dome for an even more spectacular view. Several went on the guided walking tours arranged through the hotel which are really great. With these tours you skip the long lines for the Academia and the Uffizi Gallery. The campinelle is a great work out and you are well rewarded with a breathtaking view of the dome, church and town.

With our morning excursions completed, several of us went on a tour of the Stephano Ricci store in the heart of Florence arranged by our traveler Doray Elkins who has been in the clothing and fashion business for years. This would be just the start of the total experience with fashion we would be experiencing this day. Our tour of the store was guided by  Alessandro Ciucci who explained the whole philosophy of Stephano Ricci and their commitment to producing the best product and offering the best service as if each customer is their best friend or member of their family and it showed. The men’s clothing is impeccable with exquisite and sophisticated styling consisting of fabrics that are beyond description.

From Stephano Ricci we went for a short walkthrough town, whereupon we received word from Stephano Ricci’s son. Filipo that we would be welcomed for a tour of their actual factory where they make the fabrics for their stores as well as for most of the fashion industry. This place was amazing with looms being operated much as they have been over two hundred years if not longer. A device original designed by Leonardo Da Vinci was still in use. These fabrics are simply to die for. Most are silk with a color, sheen, iridescence and texture that is beyond belief. What a fantastic tour this was and yet another example of the passion Italians give to their clothing and fabric. It is truly an art.

From there we had a 15 minute walk to the Officina Profumo Farmaceutica. Let’s just call this Italian version of a Walgreens. It is one of the oldest pharmacies in the world founded in 1222 by Dominican friars and uses medicinal herbs grown in the monastic gardens of the pharmacy and this place has every herb, scent, soap, lotion, etc. you could think of made from these herbs. Ok their products and history are amazing but as an architect truly appreciate the design, artistry and craftsman ship of this building/compound. This is a definite must just around the corner from the Santa Maria Novella church which of course is also a must…..ok remember I said to keep it a macro trip! Ok it was getting close to 5pm so back to the hotel for a quick power nap and then down to the hotel lobby bar for a quick cocktail and then a short walk to dinner.

Dinner the night before we of course were at the Villa Ste. Michele high above the hills of Florence. Tonight we would contrast that with dinner right on the street al fresco style. I love this dinner as we were all decked out the night before and tonight it’s a lot more casual and relaxed as we dine right in front of the Duomo at the Buca San Giovanni. It is always a nice setting where the group is a lot more relaxed and a little recovered from the traveling even though five of my travelers still did not have their bags! During the course of dining Isabel noticed that Amber, my Project Manger, Tim Mathewson, girlfriend was wearing something that was glistening on her left hand! Isabel asked, “What is that on your hand Amber???” The cat was out of the bag. Tim had proposed to Amber at the top of the Duomo! Now the party and trip was really on! Congratulations to the two of them!

Finish the evening with a nighttime stroll through the city and a little gelato of course. Wow, one more memory on this trip!!! Hey we have more than 10 days to go…..do you think maybe we could have a grand finale’ up our sleeve???? Stay tuned. 

Departure Day - Candelaria Design Tour Italy 2015 - Arrival in Florence

First and foremost, I want to thank all of you who have been following us on Facebook. We greatly appreciate all of your likes and comments and we are proud to announce we have passed 20,000 likes on our Candelaria Design Page on Facebook. Wow - you are all the best. 

Well, I am writing this blog for the second time as I accidentally hit the delete button just as I was finishing it the first time....so I hope this version was as good as the initial one.....

So..... we are off! This year we have travelers coming from all directions. Of course most of our travelers are from Arizona, but this year we have two travelers from Delaware and one from Oklahoma, and one from Baltimore. So of course that means all different starting points, different connections, and different arrival times in Florence. With that said, one little glitch and all the dominos can start to fall. 

To further complicate matters, our Arizona group was split into three contingencies - my Delta travelers and my US Airways travelers both traveling at different times. We then all had different connection cities including Dallas, Philadelphia and Atlanta for our first stops and then Madrid, Rome, Amsterdam and Paris for the first European stop. Then finally all of us arriving in Florence at different times. For those of us connecting in Philadelphia we would meet our two Delaware travelers and our Baltimore traveler to round out that group. 

So far so good! I received texts from everyone at the first stop that all was good and on schedule. We grabbed a glass of wine and recharged the phones in Philly and got on our next flight to Rome. Once in Rome the fun began.....we had a tight connection and of course with my persuasion and insistence, I was able to hold up our connecting flight from Rome to Florence. We made the connection but some of our bags decided to start the Italy adventure early and stayed in Rome. We knew something was wrong when we went to check if our bags were ok and they could not locate the bags. Well when we landed in Florence and wine to baggage claim, some of retrieved our bags....and some did not. 

We filled out the paperwork and met our private transport to our Hotel the marvelous Hotel Brunelleschi in Florence. I love this hotel and discovered it I believe in 2002 and have been coming ever since. The hotel underwent a major renovation a few years ago and what they have done is truly spectacular. Including some roof top suites that have insane views of the city and Duomo. The staff has been that same for years and so it has a very friendly vibe and feels like home for me when I come. The service and rooms are impeccable and you cannot find a more central location the in the heart of Florence. 

We have been traveling for some 24 hours and so we are ll exhausted. We arrived around 2pm now on Thursday after leaving Phoenix at 9am on Wednesday. So we are all spent, but despite all of this and the baggage drama your adrenaline kicks in and you want to go explore. For those with no bags it was a chance to go shopping as tonight we had our big dinner set at the Villa Ste Michele high in the hills above Florence. So you are spent but need rally for this spectacular evening. I grabbed a quick power nap and recharged the phones, caught up on a few emails and got ready for the evening.

So even with the power nap you are in kind of a dreamlike mindset and what better way to further enhance that dreamlike experience than to take the trip up the hills above Florence to the Villa Ste Michele for cocktails and dinner. We start by meeting at the Hotel Brunelleschi piazza bar for a welcome toast and then its up the hill. The Villa Ste Michele is magical and one of the premiere destinations and dining experiences in Europe if not the world. it is a great way to start our journey and sets the bar high. I have been coming here since 2004 and absolutely love the experience from the ambiance, view and cuisine. I have had the same waiter, Antenello, every trip. He is the best. This is a preset dinner we have arranged. Over the years we have fine tuned the menu and wine pairings all captured in a custom menu printed for our guests. The attention to detail is impeccable. From the truffle ravioli to the sliced beef with Brunello wine sauce, add the view and you have the makings of a fabulous and most memorable evening and start to our journey. 

Welcome to our 2015 Candelaria Design Tour Italy - Departure Day

We made it! I mean we literally just made it! Yes we have thirteen travelers ready to go as we depart unless than 12 hours which will be my 15th trip to Italy and my twelfth tour and Isabel's 4th. I almost went solo this year as around 10am earlier this morning, my Associate, Evelyn Jung, who works tirelessly to put on this tour each year, pulled me aside and says, "I have some really bad news...." I'm like, "what???" Evelyn responded, "I just double checked all of the flight info and everyone's info and I just discovered that Isabel's passport has expired!" I could not believe it - but it was true. I had the unfortunate task of telling Isabel this news, which with just 24 hours until we left, looked hopeless. I felt sick to my stomach as Isabel is such a part of the trip and the experience for everyone. This has become as much her trip as it is mine. 

I made my way into my first meeting of the day as I was busy trying to tie loose ends before departing. My client looked at me and immediately said, "What is wrong?" I gave them the story and then my client, like a miracle, said, "No problem. There is a passport office in Tucson where you can get your passport on the spot." I could not believe what I was hearing. I immediately thanked them and rushed to my Assistant, Stacey Payne, who got on it, called the Tucson office and sure enough we had a 2:30 pm appointment! Stacey called Isabel and told her to come get me.  We stopped to get a photo at Walgreen's and headed south to The Old Pueblo. 

We made it, she has her passport, and we are packed and ready to go! We even had time to stop for our Mexican Food fix before leaving at a little place called the B-Line by the UofA. So the adventure has already begun! And just like all the trips before, I am sure we have some more adventures to come and hurdles to face. All of which, just like in life, you have to push forward and just solve the challenges in whatever way possible. 

We are all relieved she is coming - I know I am! And it turns out that tomorrow is Isabel and my 2nd Anniversary whereupon this date we said our vows with our Tour Italy travelers as our witnesses on the garden terrace at Lake Como. What a day that was and what a day tomorrow will be. I love my Isabel, and my team that makes this all happen. What a can do bunch. As I always say we are CANdelaria Design not CANTelaria Design! 

We depart tomorrow at 9am or there about and will fly to Philadelphia, have a short layover,grab some dinner and stretch out, and then fly across the pond all night and arrive in Rome on Thursday morning. From there we will have a short jaunt to Florence. I am so looking forward to the trip and some more surprises we have up our sleeve both during and after the trip so stay tuned here and on our Candelaria Design Tour Italy Facebook Page! Here we go - wish us luck!

Here's to you Evelyn and Stacey for getting all the details and pieces together for this great trip and getting Isabel and I out the door :-).

Ciao

The 2015 Candelaria Design Tour Italy is Ready to Begin

This Wednesday, September 16th, we embark on our 12th Candelaria Design Tour Italy. Twelve tours and also my 15th trip to Italy and every time has been a totally different, unique and wonderful experience. 

Part of my 2012 Tour getting ready to depart from AZ.

This year we have thirteen travelers which is a perfect size - really anywhere from 12 to 18 is my sweet zone and I have now limited my groups to 18 as it is too difficult for the restaurants we visit to handle any more. Our group this year consist of two repeat travelers and one of their aunts from the East Coast, two clients from Scottsdale who are making this their maiden trip to Europe, a couple from Delaware who are friends of clients who went on last year's trip, an artist/painter from Oklahoma, another Scottsdale client/photographer and her friend, and one of my Team Directors, Tim Mathewson and his girlfriend. That will be my family for the next two weeks. 

Gicela and Isabel catch a power nap in Amsterdam on our 2012 Tour

We will start this year's trip from different locations. Two groups departing from Phoenix on different airlines and at different times, our traveler from Oklahoma, and one group will meet us on our connection in Philadelphia. We will all arrive in Florence, Italy within a few hours of each other - assuming the weather is good and we all make our connecting flights. Some are connecting in Philly, some Atlanta and some in DC. Then some of us stop in Paris, some in Amsterdam, and ur group will connect in Rome to our last leg to Florence. We leave Wednesday morning and arrive Thursday early afternoon in Florence. Needless to say, it's a long day/night....

Our itinerary is as follows: 

September 17-19th Florence Italy

September 19th - 26th Umbria and Tuscany as we use our Farmhouse Compound in Umbria as our base with excursions to Assisi, Cortona, Montalcino, Montepulciano, Pienza, San Gimignano, and Siena. 

September 27th - 29th Positano, Capri, and the Amalfi Coast. 

Now, you never know how a Candelaria Design Tour Italy might end. Two years ago our group was finishing our Tour at Lake Como and while we were driving there, my Associate, Evelyn had the hotel place invitations on each of our traveler's pillows inviting them to Isabel and my wedding on the last day of the tour at the Villa d'Este! What a grand finale' that was.....of course we had to wait until singer/musician John Legend had his ceremony a couple days before us. I have to say it was pretty cool having him watch Isabel and I tie the knot. Needless to say it was the best day of my life and what a joy it was to share it with my travelers 

So follow us right here on our blog and on the Candelaria Design Tour Italy Facebook Page and on Instagram. The office got me a GOPRO camera so let's see what I do with that! Two of my travelers are amazing photographers so the pictures will be amazing. 

Next year we have two trips planned - one in September where we will enjoy Positano and the Amalfi Coast and one in June where we will go back to Lake Como for some mountain air! The September trip is sold out so sign up now for Lake Como in June! 

With every trip its not about the architecture, or the food, or wine, its about the total experience that the Italian culture possesses. The time in the country really brings that into focus. I always find it fascinating how this trip brings everyone together and the stories that are shared, the memories that are made, and the friendships that will be created. Let's do Italy - Tour number 12! Here we go - Ciao!

9/11 - An Arizona sister pays tribute to her fallen NYC brother.

This week marks the 14th year since that horrible day we all remember as 9-11. I remember the morning well, being awakened on my alarm radio with the sounds of KTAR morning show host, Ned Foster, describing that one of the World Trade Towers had been hit with a plane. I laid in bed thinking was this real and turned on the TV to see the tower on fire and clear skies. I immediately thought to myself, "How does a jet hit one of the towers on a completely clear day?" In an instant my first thought was this was an act of terrorism and slowly woke up to this most surreal morning and then day. 

As I continued to watch the TV I could see another plane approaching and saying. "Oh my God there comes another jet," and watched the second tower hit live on TV. I then called all of my employees, as it was still before 7am here in AZ, and told them to just all stay home. As the day unfolded, we watched the Pentagon struck, the plane crash in Pennsylvania, the Anthrax scares... it was just all bad. 

But as with Katrina four years later, I watched all of this from the comfort and safety of my home. But, as with all of these events, real people died, gave their lives, or lived through the loss and aftermath. It is truly hard to know the grief and despair one goes through in an episode like this.

Flashback to last month, and my visit to New York. I was blogging about our trip when our good friend Maureen Geraghty, who is the Director of Business Development for Underfoot and regularly attends the ARA Network events, emails me that she is enjoying my blog and tells me a story that moved me which I would like to share. 

My brother, Eddie, was a Chief in the NYFD.  His firehouse is located in Time Square; Batallion 9, Engine 54, Ladder 4 at 48th and 8th.  Eddie was posthumously promoted to Deputy Chief as he was going to be promoted shortly after 9/11.   My grandfather and father were retired NYFD Captain's. My three brothers, brother in law, and three nephews are all firefighters.   All 3 nephews got on the job after 9/11, one of my nephews is my brother Eddie's son Connor.  My brother in law, Tommy DeAngelis, also a Chief in the NYFD was an active firefighter that day.

Eddie was 45 years old and had a wife and three young boys 14, 11 and 4 years old on 9/11. He loved his life and he loved his job.  It is a wonderful thing to see someone love their work so much.  Eddie's goal was to be running the department some day, and we all knew he would.  

We didn't know where Eddie or Tommy were on 9/11 and that was the tough part, especially for my parents.  My other two brothers worked that night and called home right away. They were down at the site every day digging and looking for miracles.  My brother Stevie later told me they knew the moment they were at the site that no one was coming home.  We found out where my brother Ed was and what he was doing by listening to a recording of his last moments.  Someone recorded the radio channel that the chief's were on and we got to hear him doing a job he loved and doing it well. I have attached a copy of some of his last words that are at a memorial in NY.  He is Batallion 9.    We found out that he was in the second tower that got hit.  He was on the 40th floor setting up a triage unit outside the elevator.  The purpose was to stabilize then transport the injured down to ambulances awaiting.  Eddie was communicating with another Chief, Oriel Palmer in the recording.  Oriel and his crew were walking up to the 72nd floor, where the planes wheels had cut through the building.  Oriel arrived on 72 and he was describing to my brother what he was seeing.  Eddie had just finished setting up the triage unit and said "I'm coming up Oriel" and then the building came down.  Eddie had no idea that the building was coming down - and indeed he was "going up."  I feel blessed to know that he did not suffer or have any fear like so many had that day.  My family also lost a brother in law as well, Thomas DeAngelis, also a Chief in the NYFD. 

This email really brought it all home for me. I had not choice than for Isabel and I to visit Battalion 9 on 48th Street and 8th Avenue which we did. What a wonderful experience and it was so nice to share some time with the good men and women of the NYFD and pay respect to Maureen's brother and all of those who gave their lives on this fateful day. If in NYC take some time to head over there and say hello to the crew and bring them some doughnuts or bagels. They love it and will take the time to give you a tour of their station. Thank you Maureen for reaching out to Isabel and I while on our trip. It was the most meaningful moment of any trip I have ever taken to NYC.

So, please take some time this coming Friday, September 11th, to reflect, pray, and thank all of those who gave their lives that day and all of those that lost those who gave their lives on that day. People and families across the world, and especially those in the Middle East, to this day still suffer the loss and instability that started with that one despicable and cowardly act. I challenge all of you to just DO something nice for somebody - anybody, and spread some love and light to drown out those that only want to spread darkness. It does't have to be anything big or monumental. All of us together doing one small thing can spread like the ripples of water from the smallest stone cast in a pond. Please share in honor of Maureen's brother Ed!

New Orleans - Ten Years After Katrina

View fullsize

It's hard to believe its been ten years since the catastrophe called Katrina. The morning of August 29, 2005 the Category 3 storm hit New Orleans like a bullseye causing over $100 billion in damage and became the worst natural disaster in US History. When the storm hit it came with sustained winds of 145 miles an hour and a storm surge of over 27 feet - that's nearly a three story building. Considering most of the city is some seven feet below sea level - well you do the math. The storm killed nearly 2000 people and spread damage across 90,000 square miles of the Gulf Coast. The New Orleans' metro population went from a vibrant city of nearly 1.386 million to 1.04 million following the storm and has regrown now to 1.252 million. Over 300,000 people left and only 200,000 returned leaving parts of New Orleans still randomly deserted. Most of who left were African Americans. If you watch the videos of that week it is hard to really appreciate it from afar. We can watch from our TV and turn it off and go back to our lives, but the people who lived through this could not turn their situation off. It never left and only they could change their condition and situation. I have never had to experience something like this and I hope I never do. Those that have are truly remarkable people. 

Having just visited New Orleans in May it is amazing to see how the center downtown area and the French Quarter has been resurrected. But there are still whole swaths of this city that have not recovered and will likely never recover. The storm brought to light the inequality that was and still is New Orleans. The poor felt the impact far more than others - most of the poor being African Americans. The storm showed the vulnerability, ineptitude, and corruption that plagued government both before, during and after the storm. Mayor Ray Nagin ordered evacuations too late, given over 100,000 of the residents didn't own cars! He was then later convicted of bribery, fraud, and money laundering while in office both before and after the storm and is now serving a ten year sentence. 

Katrina showed us what is wonderful in people and a community and what is an absolute shame. Looters robbed and shot vulnerable victims, while many others did everything they could to help others. Ten years later and people are still struggling here. Katrina is a great metaphor for all of our lives. Hurricanes and storms come our way in our lives too. Unexpected illness, death, business problems and issues, the list is long and all too familiar to all of us. But like New Orleans it is what we do to prepare for storms, how we weather a storm, and what we do after the storm that counts. The trials and tribulations in our lives give us a chance to reflect and to rebuild. To start anew. I think so many choose to be a victim and stay in the squalor instead of pushing forward and beyond. Yes, some have more resources and assistance than others to move on after disaster and I think it is up to all of us to help those less fortunate but only those that are willing to do their part to move forward. Those that would rather complain and remain a victim despite assistance....well I have no sympathy for you. You have chosen to stay there. Those that do accept help, those that have faith, believe in their community and contribute to their community, and are then willing to do their share, just like the rest of us that have to deal with hard times, I commend you and your spirit and I can assure you better times lies ahead. Sometimes it just takes faith and small steps towards a brighter future.... just like New Orleans. 

You have to Mario Batali when in New York

There never is enough time to see it all and I know I tell Isabel every trip, "I wish we had another day or two...." You just do your best to squeeze in as much as you can. One thing I have found through travel is the similarity between cooking and architecture. I know - that sounds crazy but the more I do and learn of each the more I have come to appreciate their similarity. It all comes down to the ingredients. Without good ingredients in cooking or in architecture you cannot have a great recipe or a fantastic building. I have also learned that smaller dishes with amazing flavors is much more satisfying that a big dish with a lot of content but no flavor. Same with designing homes. Condense the recipe, use a few key, fresh ingredients , and top it off with artistic presentation and BAM (to quote Emerril Lagasse) you have the perfect recipe or the perfect home.  The big difference is I can prepare a wonderful dinner in two hours but a home can take up to two years..... I love cooking in that I can get that same appreciation and love back a lot quicker!

So of course I always have to pay homage to one of my Food Network idols, Mario Batali. I love this guy and what he has accomplished. I love his cookbooks, his shows, his love of Italy, his inventiveness. So we started the night with a little happy hour antipasti and a Manhattan in Manhattan at Chelsea's Market. I love this place - a definite stop while in NYC. You can also take some time to walk the Highline which goes right by Chelsea's Market. 

Chelsea's Market

The Freedom Tower as seen from Chelsea.

Well we finished our happy hour too early to go home so why not walk a few blocks across town from Chelsea to Greenwich and Mario Batali's Babbo Ristorante and Enoteca. Generally, because of the fame of Mario this is not a walk in and grab a table or a spot at the bar place but we got there early and found two seats at the bar - which i prefer anyway because you always meet new people - and we were set. How about a little lamb's tongue vinagrette with oyster mushrooms as an appetizer topped off with a entre' of roasted rabbit. Of course a little saffron panna cotta and a cappuccino to cap it off. Delicious. Amazing service, fabulous wine list beyond belief and impeccable presentation. Always great music too by the way. 

Cuisine from Eately.

So the next night where else but another Mario Batali venue this time Eataly. I love the Eatly neighborhood of NYC. Located right across the street from the famous Flatiron Building this is definitely another great spot to put on your list. Mario has captured it all in his Eataly eatery. Its a sensory extravaganza both visually, aromatically and of course your palate will also not be neglected. I love his variety of venues all under the Eataly roof. From the pasta bar, to the peace bar, to the Manzo bar, to the produce market, fish market, gelattaria, to the coffee barista. I could come here every night and never run out of ways of mixing it up. Again - everything is done in impeccable style and delivery. Well done!

I wish we had and Eataly in Scottsdale! Maybe we will just need to create one!

Wine store at Eataly.

Fish Market at Eataly.

Architecture, Dining, and Dancing in New York

New York is most definitely my favorite place to come visit and explore in the US! Yes I love Italy, Spain, London, etc....but New York is the closest thing in this country to that experience but most definitely with an American / Capitalism twist! The possibilities, opportunities, and explorations are virtually endless. I have been here many times and I delight in walking the streets to find new spots and new buildings to enjoy and capture on film. I must have 20,000 photos by now and each time I come to the city I realize it is impossible for anyone to see it all! I've barely scratched the surface on Manhattan and Brooklyn and my guess I've seen only 1% of this vibrant metropolis. Again, as i always say, the more you think you've seen the more you realize you really haven't sen anything yet.....NYC goes for ever......

So where do you begin? I just keep adding to the list, and venture down new streets I've never walked, stop in new museums and galleries and showrooms I have never toured, and try new restaurants and venues from the hundreds of welcomed recommendations I receive. I LOVE exploring and experiencing new food venues so keep those coming. Thanks for all the new follows from my NYC crowd - everyone here in NYC is so great!

With limited time, as is always, the case, I try to squeeze in as much as I can! Come on - those who have traveled with me totally can appreciate that - get ready Italy travelers - this trip always gets me in fine travel training :-)!!! So this trip I wanted to see the Guggenheim Museum - I have never been. Isabel and I of course walked from our Midtown Manhattan hotel through Central Park and made our way to the Museum on north 5th Avenue along the east side of Central Park. Of course with every Frank Lloyd Wright project there was controversy! The project was conceived in 1943 when Wright received a letter from art advisor to Solomon Guggenheim asking him to design the new museum in New York City, Of course Wright did not think New York was worthy of a project like this and argued vehemently  over its location. The site near Central Park was chosen due to its proximity yo the park and nature. The museum opened in 1959 following years of struggle and battle and following Wright's death. 

The structure sought its inspiration from nature and the park. The building is an embodiment of Wright's attempts to capture the plasticity of organic forms in architecture - something he always sought to render in his work. The inverted spiral ziggurat  allowed visitors to take the elevator to the top and then slowly wind their way down to the ground floor. Isabel and I wound our way up and then re-experienced the exhibits and space on the way back down. Very interesting experiences traversing both directions. The Guggenheim is most definitely one of Wright's crowning jewels of his late career. I encourage you to experience it. 

Of course after all that walking we had worked up an appetite. So with a quick stop at Dean and Deluca for a salad we made our way back to the hotel for a cat nap. We overslept and realized our driver, Ludwig, was picking us up in 15 minutes for a fantastic and romantic NYC date night I had planned! I have my favorite restaurants I frequent but I was given a new recommendation by several clients - Blue Hill in Greenwich Village. WOW! 

Blue Hill is a little gem hidden three steps below street level of an old speakeasy in Greenwich Village just off Washington State Park. Blue Hill's menu showcases local food and a wine list from nearby farms, including the Blue Hill Farm in Great Barrington, Massachusetts and Stone Barns Center for Food and Agriculture. We chose the "Farmer's Feast" a six-course tasting inspired by the week's harvest. Ok don't panic - these courses are virtually small, elegantly and artistically prepared and presented morsels on slate squares. From the Montauk swordfish, to the Blue Hill Farm Pig, the range of flavors was diverse and inventive. A total visual and savory experience. Add the beautiful, calm, and sophisticated interior and setting and talk about a sexy start to our evening!

Ludwig was then waiting for us to traverse us across town to Rockefeller Center and some sunset cocktails on the roof of the Sixty-Five Bar and then dancing to 40's and 50's standards in the Rainbow Room.as performed by the Max Weinberg Orchestra. Fresh off a whirlwind 2-1/2 year, 175 concert world tour with Bruce Springsteen and the E Street Band, it was a nice touch to ride the elevator up from the 65th floor with none other than Steven Van Zandt himself. That was a nice touch! 

So nice to experience the elegance of a time that has sadly long passed us all. Everyone was nicely dressed, people danced in each other's arms, and there was just a feeling that Frank Sinatra was somewhere in the room. I love that era and the class, grace, and sophistication that went with it.....I wish we could bring that back!

Saturday Arrival in New York

I've been to New York many times over the last 30 years and each trip is always so unique as the explorations and discoveries are truly endless. I remember reading guidebooks to this city when I was a kid and studied maps of the city for hours imagining the spaces and places....of course this was all years and years before the computer and Google Maps and Earth....I can't imagine what I would have done with that as a kid! I have always been fascinated with this City!

My first trip here came about with me and my parents spending a week in Virginia for my brother's wedding and then had a free weekend following and I convinced my parents to hop in the car and let's drive to New York and check it out. We did it - drove up the Atlantic Coast from Newport News, Virginia and in one day ended up eating pizza on top of the World trade Tower that evening! It was a Sunday night, so the City was not crazy b busy. After our pizza on the tower, we drove across the Brooklyn Bridge, flipped a U, and made our way back across, up Fifth Avenue to Central Park and then across Midtown to the Lincoln tunnel and then all the way to Philadelphia where we found a hotel and ended our day! Ok, that was one day! Well, anyone who has traveled with me, including the Italy trips, know I ALWAYS pack as much as I can into a day! Obviously this behavior has been going on for some time now!

Well I still love coming here. I come with Isabel every August to keep her company while she shops for her store, Earth and images. From the Market to little artisans and boutiques she discovers, we do a ton of walking and exploring, of course with some fabulous restaurant stops and discoveries along the way. We LOVE all the wonderful restaurant tips we receive from you. As you know the food and restaurant scene here is endless!!!!! You could never ever hit them all but keep them coming as we love everything and never met a food we didn't like.

After landing at JFK, Isabel's driver, Ludwig, is always there waiting for us! He has been our limo driver for years. It's funny, but just the familiarity of having the same driver every year makes the trip and the arrival so special. Why start the trip in a stinky cab or super shuttle..... It's NY do it in style.  We catch up on all the goings on with Ludwig as we make our way across the East River and into Manhattan and our hotel the Warwick in Midtown. We check in and head right out for a stroll through the city and our first dining spot!

Of course one of Isabel and my favorites is a spot Isabel has been coming to for years and that 's the Trattoria Dell'Arte on 57th Street and 7th Avenue just a few blocks south of Central Park and right across from Carnegie Hall. Fabulous food and service and very New York/Italian in atmosphere and culture. Chef Anthony Acinapura has a wonderful and flavorful menu. The lobster risotto is fantastic but this trip we started with a roasted vegetable antipasti, followed by capresse salad made with fresh heirloom tomatoes the chef had just purchased at the Farmer's Market that afternoon on 6th Avenue. Fabulous. Then I had the free soft-shell crabs and Isabel had the Branzino. All fresh and fabulous. It was then nice to sit and chat with chef Acinapura about the restaurant and of course our travels to Italy and some great tips and connections he gave me for our stay in Positano next month. Wrap up the day and our travels from Phoenix to NYC with a nice stroll home, a cigar, and a little porto nightcap at the hotel bar, and our day was done. 

New York New York

Ok it was 117º yesterday so its time to get out of here! So where to go??? We just came back from Idaho, we spent the 4th in Park City, did a little business in LaJolla., Italy is next month. so where to escape and get some inspiration and some Mark and Is time???? We LOVE NYC. 

So I am typing away at 35,000 feet as we are flying somewhere over the panhandle of Texas on our way to one of my favorite places and cities on earth! Isabel and I make it here at least once if not twice a year for shopping, dining, exploring and discovering. We have come alone and with clients and friends. I love the all the dining tips I receive from clients each year and so we do our best to visit new spots and experience new venues on each trip. We have a couple new ones on our itinerary this trip so stay tuned. 

I love the perspective being in New York gives me. It's so easy to think you are where its at while working away day after day in Scottsdale and then you come to New York and you truly see at least one of the true centers of everything in the world! Just the energy I feel when crossing the Queensboro bridge into Manhattan is electrifying. I truly feel it and love that sense of wonderment each time I come. And it's true - every trip has brought a new and unexpected experience. Again one of the reasons I love travel so much. I guess some guys like to golf or go boating or what have you - mine is travel! 

I will likely snap 300 photos a day from everything as macro as panoramic views of the city, to the micro detail of a cornice or wrought iron rail on a fence or building. It all gets absorbed into the subconscious upon which I can draw upon later. Its the refill of the creative fuel tank. So clients - I'm sorry I do travel so much but it truly does wonders for my creativity I bring to you. With the technology available today its very easy to work on the road. I have my laptop, sketchpad, iPhone, iPad, stylus, and buff paper, and of course my giant wad of pens and scales wrapped with a rubber band always with me. Those of you who know me well, I'm always working and don't sleep much so NYC is perfect for me and provides the visual stimulation I need. 

So Isabel and I have some fun adventures in store for this trip and I have a few surprises for her! Stay tuned this weekend and week ahead and we'll share our explorations. Remember the Candelaria Design Tour Italy departs in just a little over a month from now on September 16th. Follow that journey right here on our blog. Stay cool in AZ guys!

Candelaria Design Tour Italy 2015 - Departure set for September 16th!

We are just a little over a month away from our departure on our 12th Candelaria Design Tour Italy! Yes - this is a REAL tour and we really do go with clients, friends, and people who have discovered our trip and just want to go explore Italy in a special way. I have a wonderful group traveling with us this year with travelers as far as Delaware and Oklahoma joining us. I also have some first time to Europe travelers which I love! 

Before I get into it - I do have an opening for two travelers as two of my repeat travelers from last year had a little family situation come up so I have room for two more travelers!!! Now I know we are just 39 days away from our departure but I always find some spontaneous adventurers who have their passports and love the idea of going on the spur of a moment!!! Our September 2016 trip is SOLD OUT but we are adding a trip in June of 2016 due to the strong demand! Thank you!

This year's trip will be fantastic. We will fly to Florence where we will spend two days and two nights and explore this beautiful city of the Renaissance. On our first night we will dine on the street right in front of the Duomo and the second night I will take our group to the spectacular Villa ste Michele on the hills above Florence. This hotel, designed by none other than Michelangelo, is so elegant and the perfect contrast to dining on the street the night before. 

From Florence we rent cars and convoy to our farmhouse compound in Umbria hosted by Elizabeth Wholey. She will have a traditional Umbrian dinner waiting for us. I love the contrast of being in a luxury hotel in Florence and then to the quiet tranquility and rustic nature of the farmhouses. We will spend a week there and explore the Umbrian and Tuscan countryside including a wine tour through the hill towns of Tuscany and our cooking classes. We will explore and experience such picturesque towns as Assisi, Cortona, Montalcino, Montepulciano, San Gimignano, and Siena. 

Then after a week "roughing it" we will drive 5 hours southward towards the Amalfi Coast and our final destination in Positano! Isabel and I have never been here so we will join our travelers in this new adventure! I love that part of the trip when we all explore something new for the first time together. Three nights there and we will return to Phoenix. 

I love this trip and the experiences we share and the friendships that transpire! From clients, to friends, to people I have never met and have found us through social media or our website, the best part of the trip is the friendships that grow during the trip. It is truly the intangible that no one expects but becomes so lasting. This will be Isabel's fourth trip with me - of course on trip two we surprised our travelers by inviting them all to our wedding on the last day of the trip at the Villa d' Este on Lake Como. That was quite the grand finale'.......who knows what we have planned this year! Follow this blog and our Candelaria Design Tour Italy Page on Facebook where we will post blogs, pictures and videos from each day's travels! You can also check out our Tour d'Italia page right here on our website for more details on next year's trips! If you have never been to Europe or Italy this is the way to learn to travel and see a part of Italy few tourists ever experience. 

Until then Ciao!

Wonderful Trip to Idaho

On the road through Eastern Idaho.

Last week we packed the car and hit the road to Idaho to film three of our homes for our show SKETCH premiering this fall on The Design Network. 1300 miles across three states including deserts, mountains and farmland - all beautiful country! We have made this ride many times and yes it takes two days and I'm sure you are thinking why would you not fly? I LOVE road trips and the time to just be quiet, uninterrupted and think! Isabel is the same. So we hit the road and virtually meditate. 

Now this year we did stretch the two day trip to four days as we had a wedding to attend in Sedona right on Oak Creek at Red Rock Crossing.....this time it wasn't ours! What a beautiful setting and then one of our vendors from Scottsdale offered us his home along Oak Creek to stay a couple nights. What a treat and what a beautiful place complete with orchards, pool, and an amazing view of the red rocks of Sedona. 

It was difficult to leave and continue on the road trip but we had a rendezvous date with our film crew so we loaded the car and headed north! Now usually we head north from Flagstaff, through Page, and through southern Utah to an overnighter in Salt Lake - which we did. Then the next day we venture north on I-15 to Butte, MT and head west on I-90 to Coeur d'Alene, ID. This year though we thought let's see some new country and so we chose a route through Sun Valley,. ID! Wow- beautiful!!!! Love coming into town and passing the small airport full of private jets. 

Our google route then showed a path north of Sun Valley up central Idaho to Salmon and then Missoula. Looked good on the map however little did we know that the road would gradually narrow, then turn to a dirt road, and then turn to a one lane jeep road with turnouts for on-coming traffic! But we continued on as we were to far into the route to turn around. Turned out to be absolutely stunning! So remote and so beautiful. We traveled the Sawtooth Range and dropped down into the Salmon River basin which flowed for miles without a single fisherman for miles. Talk about tempting! I love to fish and this is definitely a place I am going to have to come back to. Of course no cell signal for miles....so definitely a slice of heaven. 

We continued northward and had lunch in Hamilton, MT and then made our way to Missoula, MT where we reconnected with our normal route on I-90. A couple hours more and we were back to my favorite slice of heaven, Coeur d' Alene, ID! I love this place and have been coming here every year since 1999 when I started my first Candelaria Design project. Some 16 years later we just finished our fourth project here! We checked into a home we rented on the Spokane River where we met up with our film crew from Wedgie Creative - Kenny Moskowitz and Phil Click. We unloaded the troops, luggage and gear and headed into town to one of our favorite spots, Moon Time for dinner. Lamb burgers, curried cashews and crafted beers! Great start to our trip.

Day 1 of filming would be filming our second home we designed - a beautiful Mountain Villa in Black Rock for two lovely people who hired us in the midst of the 2008 economic debacle! What a memorable moment that was to get their call for a new project and of all places - in Coeur d' Alene. Not only did this turn out to be a great project but again, we made two wonderful friends along the way!  Just to give you and idea - they named one of the duties in the home the Candelaria Suite! So fun to film this home and spend time with our two friends.

From there we headed to the Wednesday Coeur d' Alene Farmer's Market which is one of my favorite parts of coming here. Fresh produce and flowers from local farmers. hand crafted pizzas, and of course my favorite, the bread vendor! I love this experience and seeing the same vendors for the last 16 years! It's lime a time capsule! 

Then it was off to Angelo's for dinner with all three clients from Coeur d' Alene. How nice to share dinner with all three client couples and spend some time with chef and good friend Angelo Brunson and his crew. This is my little slice of Italy when I'm in Coeur d' Alene, Idaho! Angelo uses fresh produce from his garden, fresh meats from the local ranchers and now makes his own wine - which was fantastic. Always a treat and one of my must stops when I come to town. 

The next day we filmed my first Candelaria Design project - not just here in Coeur d'Alene but anywhere! The Murphy Lodge is an amazing log home set virtually on a cliff on the west shore of Lake Coeur d' Alene. 17 semi trailers of logs make up this home with spectral views of the lake. Of course we had to film this home in style from a beautiful Stancraft boat approaching the home from the lake - all captured by a drone from 3DR out of Austin, TX. The footage this drone can capture is fabulous and I can't wait to share it with you with these episodes.

After filming at the Murphy Lodge we made our way to the Stancraft Boat Shop where owner Robb Bloem is busy crafting some works of art on the water. He gave us a tour of the facility and some of the boats they have under construction or receiving maintenance including John Elway's boat. We also came across a boat he mentioned would be used in someone's ceiling as an accent piece. Turns out that boat is going in our client's game room ceiling! 

Our final day of filming culminated at beautiful home on Hayden Lake which is just north of Coeur d' Alene. This home was completed in 2012 and is truly magnificent. The 10,000 sf two-story home is rustic and in mountain style but yet is very sophisticated and elegant. The client is a world renowned orthodontist and holds numerous patents for state of the art products he has developed. He and his wife are wonderful people who inspire me not only professionally but personally. 

We finished our Coeur d' Alene adventure with a trip to the Kootenai County Farmer's Market on Saturday morning! Can you tell I love farmer's markets!!!! Nothing like a lamb burger with a fried egg on it at 9am in the morning!!! 

Great trip and so nice to catch up with my friends from Idaho. I am so excited to share these three homes in a three part series on our TV series SKETCH this Fall on The Design Network! Stay tuned!!!