Pollo alla Diavola - Tuscan Style

Ok - thanks for the comments on my last blog comparing our food in the US to the food in Italy, both in growing and preparing.  More thoughts to come on that in the days and weeks ahead.

So I had a few requests for a simple recipe learned in Italy. This is an easy one and one I enjoy.

One of the most wonderful things about most Italian cuisine is its simplicity in ingredients and preparation. Here is a simple recipe that is always good and perfectly adapted to Arizona - Pollo alla Diavola - Grilled Chicken, Devil's Style. Many Italian cookbooks will have a version of this recipe, but here is an easy version that I feel truly responds to my passion for the simplicity of Italian and especially Tuscan/Umbrian cuisine.













Ok this is best over a grill with wood coals and an old brick or two placed over the bird. Or if you have a pizza oven, laid flat with the bricks over the top. To start, split a 2 pound chicken open along the backbone, folding it open just like a book. Use your hands to flatten the bird as much as possible.

Then, in a bowl, mix together the following ingredients:

4 cloves of garlic chopped finely
4 tablespoons of fresh chopped sage
4 tablespoons of fresh chopped rosemary
The grated zest and juice of 4 lemons from your lemon tree
2/3 cup of extra virgin olive oil
Sea Salt and ground pepper to taste
....and if you want to kick it up a notch, sprinkle with crushed pepper flakes as you prefer.

Coat your chicken with the above mixture and if you can let it marinate in the refrigerator for two hours or more and overnight if possible turning it often to really get the ingredients incorporated into the chicken.

Remove the chicken from the marinade and place it on the hot grill, skin side down, and weigh it down with the old bricks. Grill for 15-20 minutes managing your coals and heat, turn the chicken skin side up, and grill for another 10 minutes or so depending on your heat. The chicken is done when the skin is dark and crispy. Serve right off the grill splitting the pieces with a meat cleaver as desired.

Enjoy. 

Arizona vs. Italy - A few Thoughts...

It's always great to be home. I love Arizona and of course the United States. I am proud of my country for sure - we are far from perfect, but we are an amazing group of people and country. As much as I love Italy, I would never leave the US to live permanently in Italy. Italy remains a wonderful place to visit.

I love all the conveniences we have here in the US. The nice freeways and open spaces. Our stores and product availability and wide selection. Our efficiency is amazing. But will all of these advantages and conveniences we have also given up some things that I feel deprive us of how great each and every day can be and how much more full our experience can be. There are areas where Italy far surpasses us and where we could learn from the Italian culture to enhance our daily lives and our health. That does not mean Italy couldn't learn a few things from us - like our amazing work ethic - which I think can still improve in this country. As I tell many people, if I could blend our two countries and ways of life into one culture I think it would be pretty close to perfect. A culture with a strong work ethic and an appreciation for beauty, quality and great food. Amerily!

Nothing brought this home to me more than when we got home and started to unpack, suffering from the effects of flying for 21 hours and passing 9 time zones, and I ran to Paradise Bakery for a salad and soup. Such a different experience from Italy. First - it was very fast - in comparison to Italy. However, the emphasis was purely on speed and making sure the portion I received was carefully measured and perfectly replicated. In Italy that cup of soup would be a work of art and would likely take twice if not there times to prepare. Nothing against my Paradise Bakery worker but the sour cream on the tomato soup was just randomly squirted across the surface and the tortilla chips where just quickly scattered over the top. In Italy, the sour cream would have been scripted into a beautiful pattern and the tortilla chips would be sculpted into a little tower. The soup would likely be concocted and composed from tomatoes from the local garden or farm and not from a can prepackaged with preservatives and tons of sodium.


Somehow our efficiency and need for quick and fast has taken over every aspect of our life and partially to our detriment. Our food really has suffered. One thing I notice on each trip to Italy is I can eat the food and drink the wine without any hint of heartburn or indigestion whereas in this country virtually everything here bothers me at some level. Our food is full of preservatives, chemicals, and fat. Their food is actually digestible and nourishing. Our food is slowly killing us at the expense of convenience and speed. Our health care system is a self fulling prophecy and result of the diabetes and obesity created by the mega food companies - they all stand to make billions from this system.







Thus I am so encouraged by the Farmer's Markets and Whole Foods and restaurants that use organic ingredients. I love designing home gardens and taking the time to cook with fresh ingredients grown locally. Let's all try to adapt this wonderful aspect of Italian culture - insisting our food be of higher quality and we take the time to prepare it properly and enjoy it properly.

Candelaria Design Tour Italy 2014 - Arrividerci

Our trip is completed - well for the most part. As I write this I'm flying somewhere over Kentucky or Tennessee and we will all be home in Arizona soon. With a tight connection in Newark, all of us made the connecting flight but two of our travelers whose luggage were the last two bags off the conveyor in Newark, only so we could go through customs and get the bags rechecked, and then go back through security, and then find the gate that seemed to change locations two or three times. It sounds like they are on the next flight and will be home a few hours after the rest of us!

This year I had one three-peat traveler and two repeat travelers. It is always fun to see these travelers evolve from their first trip to the subsequent trips. Not only in their experience and familiarity with all of the little idiosyncrasies of the trip, but to see how their lives have changed and evolved. Just like the trip, you keep moving forward, despite the wrong turns, and right turns - you keep moving forward. Next thing you know you are on a completely different path in life. I love that about this trip and my repeat travelers. They truly are special people to me.

Next year we will finish the trip in Positano, Capri and the Amalfi Coast. This will be my first time to these locations so I'm sure next year's trip will be full of new adventures. We hope to put together a great group of 14-18 travelers for another spectacular journey. Don't wait to sign up - I already have four travelers from this year's trip ready to go!

My 11th Candelaria Design Tour is complete and now it's back to being an architect! We are excited with the projects we have going - with the Villages at Mountain Shadows being one of the main marquis projects currently underway. We have some amazing homes in design and production too including some unbelievable hillside homes, several homes in California and a new one just getting started in Cherry Hills, Colorado!

 The Italy trip always inspires me and so many aspects of the Italian culture and style get infused into both my personal and professional life. From architecture to food, to spending time with friends and family, and making our time at work and with clients more like family - it all gets infused into my everyday way of life! It's so easy to get caught up in the everyday hamster wheel but mixing it up with these little infusions of the Italian culture sure does make life more savory and beautiful.

So get ready - we will do our best to blog regularly and we will post some of the fabulous recipes from the dishes we enjoyed, talk more about the people and places we enjoyed, and go into more depth on design and just living. That's what we really want to focus on is how to all live a bit better! So here we go - stay tuned!

Candelaria Design Tour Italy 2014 ~ Day 12 & 13 ~ Lake Como and Villa d’Este

There really is nothing quite like the Villa d'Este and Lake Como. I have been exploring Italy now for over 15 years and it is definitely one of my favorite spots in Italy, if not the world. Now I have a lot of traveling to do and places yet to see, but this ranks number one on my list so far.

This hotel, staff, setting, food, guests….it has it all – and they know it. But despite the style and sophistication there is most definitely and underlying feeling of family with the staff. Again, as in most of my travels in Italy, I have the same staff, waiters and bartenders every year. It really makes it special especially when you return a year later and they remember your cocktail and how you like it. Now that is service.

The hotel is fabulous but so are the grounds and gardens. Spectacular!!! Set alongside Lake Como the gardens gracefully dance up the hillsides while spectacular water features trickle every melodically down the Italian cypress lined alle’s. Pictures, as beautiful as they are, cannot come close to capturing the splendor of the experience.

Well, after a 5 -7 hour drive, my travelers were ready for a little R and R. The rooms are exquisite and have the roll down black-out shades on the windows. So with these down you have no clue what time of day or night it is when you wake up. I remember once in a hotel in Barcelona nearly losing a whole day because of the black-out shades. Isabel and I slept in until 9:15 which was very nice. We awoke to beautiful hazy lakeside sunshine. We made our way to the hotel dining room for a lovely breakfast and hellos from our travelers as they slowly drifted in to start their day.

Nothing was on the agenda for the day with the exception of  a surprise 5 hour cocktail boat ride on the lake to Belagio and then dinner on an island in the lake,  Evelyn Jung, who runs my business and so expertly choreographs this trip each year, texted me the surprise final addition to the trip itinerary! My travelers were excited but truly had no clue as to what they were in for,  Evelyn, who had went on last year’s trip and put together Isabel and my surprise wedding, obviously knew how I like to end these trips with a grand finale’ and this year was going to be no exception.

After a relaxing day of massages at the spa – compliments of Isabel as an anniversary gift – napping, shopping,  and lunch at the poolside veranda, it was time to rendezvous at the terrace bar for cocktails and then to board our boat. We boarded at 6pm just as the magic hour of sunlight was dancing on the hills. We made our way northward in the lake past the houses of Sir Richard Bransom, Dolce Gabanna  and of course, George Clooney. Slowly we made our way to the village of Belagio as the last glow of indigo light teased our senses in contrast with the golden twinkle of the lights of Belagio,  Magical.

We took a quick stroll through Belagio and then it was off to our final destination – the Island of Comacina and the Locanda della' Isola.What a fun place. Evelyn had set up a family style meal, so we sat down, and just as so many of our meals with this group – the food just started coming! The meal was capped off by the owner performing quite a ritual with flaming coffee that captured the attention of the entire restaurant. Of course he chose Isabel to sample to concoction and she gave it the thumbs up so we were good to go! A group picture and it was back on  the boat after a 3 hour feast.

The boat ride home was beautiful with the darkness broken only by the gold twinkle light of the villages smattered on the hills, the moonlight, and the revolving beacon from the lighthouse on the hill.  It all seemed like a dream – and yes it was a dream.

The next day was more the same, sleeping in, enjoying some downtime and then a wonderful farewell cocktail on the terrace and dinner in the dining room of course with none other than George Clooney himself…. J

So ended our 11^th Candelaria Design Tour Italy. We said our goodbyes, said goodnight, and got ready for a 4am wakeup call and our drive to Milan for our flight back to reality. Our Italy dream was coming to an end……

Candelaria Design Tour Italy 2014 - Day 11 - Drive to Lake Como

Today we wake up early Saturday morning and get ready to load up and head north to Lake Como. We have been in the countryside for a week and my travelers have totally lost touch with what day of the week it is and have now totally relinquished themselves from their cares back home. Sure we check the emails and do a few face times and skypes, but by now it has really tapered off and my travelers are in the moment of Italy.

We pack the bags, load up the cars, and dump the trash - mostly empty wine bottles! We say goodbye to our country homes and we get ready for a 5-1/2 hour drive across Italy. But first, coffee in Mercatale and a stop at the Bancomat and the gas station. We enjoy our last country cappuccino and pastry and strategize our routes and car order and we are off. Now my adventurous drivers usually set their pin on Google Maps and take off on their own - this year was no different. Four of my eight cars took off and three others stayed close and followed me.

The race was on to Lake Como. We pulled out of Mercatale at about 10 am - not bad for this large of a group. With several toll stops and stops at Autogrille's for snacks and restroom breaks we gradually make our way northward and flee Umbria. This year we drove through Florence and Bologna, made our way near Verona, swept around Milan and then got that first glimpse from the A9 Autostrado of our next paradise - Lake Como! WOW, WOW and WOW. This place is so beautiful and it was so nice to be back following last year's first trip here.

Slowly we all arrived at about 4pm and checked into the Villa d'Este Hotel. This hotel is as good as it gets, and what a sharp contrast from the Umbrian Country Houses. We pull into the porte cochere with our dusty cars from the countryside parked next to Ferrari's and Bugatti's, and we look like the Beverly Hillbillies! So fun!!!













We check in and my office manager, Evelyn Jung, who puts this whole amazing trip together each year, had arranged an arrival cocktail on the terrace bar for 6:30 pm. So now the transformation was on. From the casualness of Umbria to the chic style and elegance of Lake Como! Well we all pulled it off. Now we were sipping Belini's on the terrace and enjoying the sunset over the lake while the near full moon slowly rose over the majestic hills of Como! My travelers were now totally mesmerized and transported again to another setting and another adventure in this dream through Italy.



What was nice for Isabel and me, this was our final stop on last year's trip where we sprung on our travelers our surprise wedding here at the Villa. Candelaria Italian Wedding So now we could relax and relive this magical experience one more time.


With the welcome cocktails completed we were all off on our own destinations for the evening. Some had dinner at the hotel as did Isabel and I, others went up the hill the to Gato Negro for dinner, and some stayed on the terrace and enjoyed the evening. Our final leg of our Italian journey was underway.

Candelaria Design Tour Italy 2014 - Day 10 - Free Day in Umbria

This is our last day in the countryside of Umbria. Nothing on the agenda so all of our travelers are free to come up with their own itinerary for the day.

This is also a great way to assess the adventurous nature of my travelers as tomorrow we drive for over 5 hours across Italy to our final destination Lake Como. Each couple has their own car and for the last 5 days we have been grouping ourselves to minimize the number of cars and so our best drivers have been driving each day. Well today that all changes as each couple is free to explore the area as they so choose in their own car.

Isabel and I slept in. Our plan was to go to the Saint Antimo Abbey near Montalcino for the the 12:45 chanting by the monks. I promised Isabel we would make it there this year in time to hear the monks chant. Well we got off to a late start and so we hustled into the car and set the gps and it said it would take us two hours to get there. It was already 11:15…...I underestimated the time it would take to drive there. So someone was not pleased with my ability to plan everything for the group but not get this little detail spot on! As we drove I quickly searched the website and saw they had another chant session at 2:45!!! Amen - the monks had saved me!







So we made our way across the hills of Tuscany and now had some time to pick up some goodies for a picnic. I had stashed a bottle of Casanova di Neri Brunello, a corkscrew and two glasses in my backpack. We stopped in Pienza at a restaurant Pino had introduced me to many years ago, La Mensa del Conte, for a salad, a panino and some drinks to go and we were set - on to Montalcino and Saint Antimo.














We found our way to the Saint Antimo Abbey with about 10 minutes to spare. We walked around the church and enjoyed the calm and serenity of the space. Filled with the aroma of frankincense  you could feel the spiritual peace of this space. We made our way to a pew and said prayers for our friends, family and travelers, and then rested in silence as the monks made their way in for their 2:45 chant. With the chanting underway you really almost go into a trance and your mind and spirit just floats with the smell of the frankincense through the space. Very tranquil, very calming. So nice to share a moment like this in the midst of our busy travels with the woman I love.

With the chanting complete, the monks rose from their kneeling position and slowly made their way back to their space and vow of silence. Isabel and I rose from the pew and made our way out to the garden and grabbed our lunch and backpack and found a beautiful spot in the olive grove of the abbey to enjoy the Tuscan countryside, the warm sun, our tasty lunch and that fantastic Brunello.

The shadows were growing longer and the temperatures were beginning to cool and so it was time to go back to Pienza for a little shopping, a cappuccino and gelato to offset the Brunello and then make our way home across the beautiful hills while the sun set on this Italian paradise.

While we were away, all of my travelers were off on their own adventures. On our final night we all gather at the big house, Casa LaPietra, for a pot luck, and a final chance to empty our refrigerators from all the leftovers, and a wonderful farewell dinner in Umbria. Oh…..and don't forget the beef stew!!! Left over from the steaks  8 days ago in Florence, the ladies had been patiently waiting to serve this masterpiece of flavor to us all. The stew that had traveled through Umbria! It was fantastic as were all the leftover creations!










We shared our stories from each of our adventures. Some ventured as far as Assisi and Cortona. Some went to Lake Trasimeno for lunch, and others just made it down to the grocery store in Mercatale. No matter the destination, every traveler had their own unique version of this day - and therein lies one of the beauties of this trip and the reason I love each couple having their own car.

Our time in the Umbrian countryside and the Alta Bella Country Houses was complete. A unique experience not many people who come to Italy every see, feel, touch or smell -  but one that truly defines what Italy really is all about!

Candelaria Design Tour Italy 2014 - Day 9 - San Gimignano & Siena

It's hard to believe we are on Day 9 of our Candelaria Design Tour Italy 2014! We have covered a lot of ground but the time is quickly passing now. My travelers are really gaining confidence now and so we tackle two great hill towns, San Gimignano (the hill town of towers) and my favorite, Siena.

We start the day gathering our cars and my best drivers. From 8 cars we get it down to 4 cars and we are off on our convoy across Umbria and Tuscany.  This is a beautiful drive through the Chianti region of Tuscany. We wind our way through hills covered in vineyards and olive groves overlooked by regal villas and farmhouses.










We make it to San Gimignano first. We parked and made our way to the main piazza where the cistern is. There is a great restaurant upstairs called the Cisterna. You go up the stairs and arrive to this modest restaurant with a spectacular view of the town and countryside. They also serve the best chingale roast stew (wild boar) I've had. Coupled with a dry chianti and I was in heaven. We all tried different things from pizzas, to salads, to soups, to sausages with beans. Delicious.

With lunch complete we had about an hour and half to shop and explore this charming hill town known for its stately towers. These towers left standing since the middle ages were defensible residences and fortresses whereby residents could dump hot oil and arrows on their enemies. Wow - talk about tough times back then. Boy you would sure want to make sure you didn't make a mistake! As with all the hill towns you have the main thoroughfare lined with shops, sausage, cheese and wine shops. Beautiful nonetheless. A quick cappuccino and a gelato and we all gathered at our rendezvous spot, set new pins in our phones to our next location - Siena.










Siena is my favorite place on the trip. I think if I lived somewhere in Italy, this would be it. Home to the famous palio horse race in July, this town is crowned by a spectacular church and the impressive Piazze del Campo. I love this city. It has bravado, style, sophistication all coupled with an equal dose of Italian masculinity and roughness. It's balanced - just like the food. Magnificent. We made our way from San Gimignano through the countryside and then through the outskirts of Siena to our parking spot. That can sometimes be an adventure but we all made it with no issues. You cannot drive into the city center so over the years I have found a nice parking spot whereby we can park, walk about a half mile into the city and have a relatively easy exit out of the city as we leave many times after 10pm.

The walk into the city center of Siena is beautiful. We are arriving about 5pm so the sunlight is in its magic hour. Fantastic views of the duomo and then the streets that come alive with the voices of Italians walking in all directions down the main thoroughfare. We made a beeline to our gathering and rendezvous spot the Piazza del Campo. My favorite space in the world. The main piazza of Siena and maybe of Italy. It is gorgeous and so wonderful as there are not cars or Vespa's. Just the sound of people speaking Italian and enjoying life.

With our rendezvous spot set, I took several of my travelers on a short walk to the Duomo - the marvelous church of Siena. This is also my favorite church in the world. Spectacular is all you can say. What is amazing is what stands today was only a small part of what was to be a mega structure that ran out of bodies and funding during the Black Plague amongst other hiccups along the way. Nevertheless, even this attempt is truly remarkable. I had been through the inside many times, so I got my travelers set up and they went inside for the tour as I took my 50 or so photos of the outside and made my way back to the Piazza.

 

Several travelers had stayed here and were already settled in for the evening, taking pictures and enjoying aperol spritzers. Slowly the sun made its way down behind the duomo and one by one our travelers made their way back to the piazza and our rendezvous spot and we dined and enjoyed the sights and sounds of this truly magical spot on earth.

 

 

Candelaria Design Tour Italy 2014 - Day 8 - A day at the Country Houses

Well as you can tell we have pretty much been on the go non stop since our departure a week ago! With the time change and my Candelaria pace my travelers are ready for a pause and reset. What made it even better was some rain was in the forecast which is perfect for a rest day. Make a fire, sleep in and relax.






I tried to get a group to run into Umbertide at 9 am for the Farmer's Market but no answers to the texts. I tried again at 10 am - a couple takers. By 10:30 I had 7 travelers ready to go. So by 11 am eight of us were on our way to Umbertide for the Farmer's Market. The rest of my travelers were going to enjoy a quiet day at the houses.

I love the little Farmer's Market. The same faces, in the same booths, in the same locations! First stop is always for the porchetta sandwich. My favorite is right before you enter the central piazza and before you cross the bridge. A cute husband and wife team make an incredible roasted pig stuffed with herbs sliced and served on a French roll. What a breakfast.

We then wondered into the piazza for a cappuccino and a stroll through the market. Our cooking class is also on this evening so we stocked up on a few additional items for the evening festivities. Fresh fish, cheeses, sausages, salamis, fruits and veggies. All fresh and all proudly displayed and sold.

A quick stop for a gelato on the way out of town and it was back to the Country Houses. Many tours we then make our way to Lacole' but this year we were all ready for a day at the houses so we headed home - but not first with a little side trip to Preggio!

 Preggio is just up the hill from the country houses but we came in from the back side from Umbertide. What a beautiful drive through the countryside! At the top of the mountain (just like all the towns here) we arrived in the little village of Preggio. Virtually silent, but for a few locals and the occasional tourist who also likely stumbled on this town by accident, we stolid through the village whereupon we found a small restaurant - provision store and grabbed some bottled beers, a couple glasses of wine some pancetta for our veggies, some jug wine, and of course a bottle of Lemoncello for the evening celebration. We sat on the terrace, snapped some photos, shared some laughs and enjoyed our refreshments.

We then made our way down the hill to our houses where others had been relaxing enjoying the incoming rain shower and we had a couple hours until the commencement of the cooking class! Yes - siesta time!

At 5 pm we started the cooking class.  This is truly the crescendo on this trip! It is the moment the group really bonds and comes together. And just as with all the other trips this one was no exception. Cooking, music, a fire in the fireplace, stellar scenery with a magical sunset and a relatively speaking rested group of travelers - its all the perfect recipe for a memorable evening. Our house host and chef, Elizabeth Wholey and her amazing partner, Paola, went to work. From peppers cooked in sunflower oil, to mozzarella balls wrapped in cooked strips of zucchini, to grilled pork shoulder, polenta and of course tiramisu - we learned to make it all! Nothing like a three hour cooking glass and a two hour dinner all accompanied by amazing wines purchased just the day before on our wine tour with Pino and this party was off an running! Stay tuned in the weeks ahead for many of the recipes from our trip here in Umbria!!!!

What a fabulous way to spend a quiet day in Umbria.

Candelaria Design Tour Italy 2014 – Day 7 – Wine Tour with Pino

Well after yesterday’s wild day it is nice to get to Tuesday and our Wine Tour of Tuscany. What is nice about the Wine Tour is our tour guide Pino arranges a bus for us so we can all enjoy the day, enjoy the wine, catch some zzzz’s on the bus and not have to drive!

We simply had to drive about 10 minutes from the houses to Mercatale and our rendezvous spot with Pino where there is a fantastic little coffee bar.  Grab a cappuccino, a pastry, some water for the road, and we were off.

Our wine guide, Pino, has been my guide for over 14 years. It has been fun to watch him change and transform over the years. What an interesting fellow he is. Trained as a geologist, Pino has an amazing grasp of the makeup of the land and its history.

So of course like everything in Italy, the bus and driver missed the communication on the rendezvous spot and was in the next town about 20 miles away…..So we followed Pino in a convoy to Camuchia and met the bus driver parked at a large Supermarket by Italy standards! Wow what a break to be parked here! You see, two of my travelers were not going to let those giant bisteca alla Fiorentine go to waste from our first night in Florence and had taken doggie bags with them and had been schlepping these steaks with them to the Country Houses and had decided to make the group an amazing stew. So they had been collecting veggies, broth, etc. for this stew but were needing corn starch to thicken the stew. Looks like we hit pay dirt!

We boarded the bus and we were off. Our first destination the winery of Casanova di Neri just outside of Montalcino.. This winery is amazing, sophisticated, scenic and dedicated first and foremost to quality. Their marquis wine is their Brunello. What impresses me about this winery and their wines is the steps they take to ensure the highest quality wine possible. From hand picking the grapes, sorting the grapes, pressing the grapes, storing and aging, down to specific details for their requirements for the bottles and corks. What tops this particular tour is their scenic wine tasting room that overlooks the Tuscan landscape and the hill town of Montalcino. They set an elegant table where we could sit and enjoy our wine samplings paired with cheese and bread to cleanse the palate after each tasting. What a fantastic experience only further enhanced by the wine and its effects at 11 am in the morning!

From here we went to the hill town of Montalcono and a marvelous wine shop where we could further our tasting extravaganza! Yum!!!

From there we made our way across the Tuscan countryside to Pienza and the home of the pecorino cheese – sheep cheese and of course more wine. A quick walk through the village, grab a porchetta sandwich and it was back on the bus…. Where I realized I had forgotten the envelope of cash for the payment of Pino and the driver…..I seem to manage to do this every year for some strange reason. So I rallied my troops and we a couple of my travelers spotted me the cash to pay the driver so we wouldn’t have to drive all the way and then back over the hill to the driver all the while they are waiting…..I hate when I do that.

So with Pino and the driver squared away it was off to our final stop, Montepulciano and home of the Vino Nobile wines. Another picturesque hill town with many amazing shops, sights and restaurants. Here we toured another very old underground cellar that was just beautiful and such a contrast to the Casanova di Neri cellar which is much more modern and state of the art.

 

The sun was starting to set and so we enjoyed the bus ride through the hills of Tuscany and the light cast on the villas, vineyards, and cypress trees of this magical land.

We arrived at the supermarket, grabbed some more provisions including of course and most importantly, corn starch and we were off to our final destination – Trattoria di Mimmi's in Mercatale!

Mimmi’s has been our final stop of our Wine Tour day for years. It’s a little bed and breakfast farmhouse with a fabulous restaurant that serves a family style 8 course farmers meal. We start with melon and salamis, followed by a couple crostinis and then on to three different pastas and then finally three different meats including roast turkey, roast pork and finally roast beef.  All along our pitcher of house wine is filled and consumed, filled and consumed, filled and consumed……all finally culminated in two deserts – panna cotta and tiramisu!

 

Fantastic day and evening – no one lost!

Candelaria Design Tour Italy 2014 - Day 6 - Umbria Hill Towns

Day 6 is always a busy day. Some years we just tackle one hill town but we have done as many as three in a day. This year we went for two - Perugia and Assisi.

First and foremost we consolidate bodies into fewer cars. So instead of 8 cars we double up and get it down to 4 cars. Trust me that is still plenty for avid adventure! We start with our morning coffee and some eggs and potatoes for breakfast in our little quaint Umbrian kitchen and then its down the hill and off on our Umbrian Hilltown adventure.

Our first stop is Perugia. 4 cars all traversing the hills, then the highway and then the first exit into the city…..and then the separation, cars get lost and we are off and into our own version of the CBS show The Amazing Race. Trust me - our version would be better! Cars get separated, and then my job is to figure out where everyone is and how to get them to the parking spot! Always a challenge but we always eventually get there and this year was no exception.


The first thing my travelers learn is not to panic. As in life, when drama or storms come your way, the best thing to do is forget the emotion and look closely at the situation and start assessing options. In this case my goal is always to get one car at a time back to where I am. Here is where I learn who my good navigators and travelers are. Yes we could get a bus and all follow Mark with a flag but that is not what this trip is about. This trip is about getting you out of your comfort zone and trust me - we don't realize it, but we spend every day of our lives insulating ourselves from adversity and have feathered our comfort nests to the point that we don't even recognize the fact we are sitting tight there in the middle of that nest. I want my travelers to find that part of them they have lost - that sense of adventure which brings along a heightened awareness of living and stepping out and seeing the world and experiencing new things that most people would prefer to live through Rick Steeves and his travel shows. This trip gets you out of the couch and off the internet and behind the seat of a car desperately searching for me somewhere on some side street in Perugia!!!!

Ok - so back to our journey! The one thing I also find are who my good Google Maps navigators are and who even has a decent phone with data! Trust me when you travel like this - forget paper maps they are worthless - not bad back ups - but Google Maps works great….as long as you have a signal :-). Fortunately, it seems to work pretty well in Italy. So my travelers start to learn what a dropped pin is and how valuable they become. With a dropped pin I can get blow by blow directions to that pin. So I can send a pin to where I am and my travelers can find me or vice versa. It works very well and once my travelers start learning how to do this it is a great resource and skill for years and trips to come.

We all find each other and make our way to the parking lot…..one problem I didn't follow MY pin and had us park in a private swim club parking lot! Ok so now we are all in this lot but there is a gate you need to have open to get out. Luckily someone was answering the call button and between my broken Italian and the gate operator's broken English we managed to get 4 cars through the gate. So now back up a few more hairpin turns up the hill and we were to our true pinned parking lot.



Parking is always a challenge as I try to get all my cars together. The spots are tight and the spaces come at a premium - sometimes we have to wait several minutes for someone to leave and then use our traveler body guards to defend the spots! I told you this was an adventure.

With cars parked we made our way up, up, up to the old city of Perugia. Perugia is the capital of Umbria and a beautiful city with a lovely main thoroughfare framed by churches, museums, trattorias and bars and of course shopping. So we picked a group rendezvous time and place and we were all off on our own mini adventures…..see no following Mark with a flag. Everyone found nice little spots to dine and relax and enjoy a beautiful lunch hour in Perugia.

Now it was off to Assisi. Ahhh my travelers stay a lot closer now…..Nice and tight. We make our way down the hill from Perugia, drive across the valley and then make our way up the hill to Assisi which is spectacular. Everyone loves Assisi. It is definitely one of my favorite towns for sure. Assisi is the city of peace - and yes you really feel it. This is the town of Saint Francis and he is entombed at the bottom of the main cathedral on the west end of town.

We parked and made our way down the main thoroughfare into the main piazza where we found our gathering spot and set our rendezvous time. Group photo in front of the cathedral and then it was off to all go and explore. Isabel and I have seen the church many times so we went and found a fantastic wine shop and enjoyed a glass of wine and some antipasti and some quiet time.

Gradually, we all made our way back to the piazza where we shared stories of our explorations and finds, grabbed a cappuccino and some gelato and made our way back to the cars. Isabel is my driver and of course I am the navigator. We had brought two of our travelers that wanted to stay in Siena for the night and then drive home on their own. So I thought I would surprise one of them by having them drive us home to give them a sense of the experience before casting them off later in the week to the Tuscany drivers and roads….. Well she was surprised all right but with me as her navigator she did great. I do think the experience though made them realize that they probably were not quite ready to do this on their own. Better they find out today than later in the week and they lose a day trying to find their way home!

We made our way back to our valley and were heading to my little pizza stop but unfortunately they were closed….and it was getting late. We asked at the next door bar if they new anything nearby and a lady showed my on my Google Map a place not too far away where we could grab some pizzas. Perfect! I got my travelers in their cars and we were off on a short jaunt around a couple corners to a new find. That's all fine assuming you make the right turn….well we made the wrong turn and ended up on this steep little one way road that dead ended at someone's house with very little room to turn around 4 cars. After doing the Austin Powers u turns we made it back down the hill and over to the new restaurant. It looked a bit dark so I walked up and sure enough it was open and they were happy to serve us. Great little place and fantastic food.


Vivian and I had to do a conference call from our cars so we missed dinner but got doggie bags to go! We then drove off and headed home……no wait - two cars turned the wrong way and they were off in the wrong direction….. one last adventure…..well after about 30 minutes of frantic texts we figured out that they had figured their ways home through the country roads!!! We all made it home, grabbed a glass of wine and relived our day.





I had achieved my goal! I had created some new adventure travelers! 

Candelaria Design Tour Italy 2014 - Day 5 - Villa Piazzano and Cortona

Sunday is one of my favorite days. How many times do I say this during the trip…..!

It's our first full day in the country. Fresh air, birds singing, the fog slowly disappears from the valley floor as the sun peaks its first rays over the hilltops of this magical land that time has forgotten. I got the coffee going, started a nice fire in the fireplace, and slowly my travelers, not sure where they are by now, awake and started their day. Today we get to sleep in a bit as we don't have to be to our first destination until 11 am. So it was nice to see everyone discover the homes and watch the fog lift for the first time.

Today we start the day at the Villa Piazzano Villa Piazzano. One of my favorites…..see there I go again! But truly, this is. I stumbled upon this property in 2000 by making the wrong turn down the road….I've discovered a lot of great things during my travels that way.  Once I realized I was on the wrong road it was too late as I was quickly mesmerized by the Italian cypress alle that seemed to never end. Only after a mile of repetitive trees did it end at this amazing villa. When I first saw this property back then it was in poor order and was really nothing to get too excited about. I saw a family strolling the grounds and asked them if they knew what this place was. They indicated they had just purchased the property and were in the process of restoring it. Well, seeing it now some 14 years later and it is simply marvelous what has been accomplished. This is a premier  destination if you are ever in this area. Beautiful grounds, amazing history, friendly and charming staff, and all at the foot of Cortona, Tuscany and Umbria. I cannot think of a better place.






So after our drive in which again mesmerized us all, we parked and made our way into the Villa where we were all welcomed. We were given a short tour of the Villa, the wine cellar, which is terrific, and then it was off to brunch on the garden terrace overlooking the pool. This beauty of this setting is hard to capture in words or pictures. It can only be understood by a visit. The sights, smells, warmth of the Tuscan sun, colors, and then ultimately the taste of the food - what a plethora of stimuli. That is what Italy is all about…..!

The brunch they prepare for us is a masterpiece - a true work of art. Carefully arranged in the dining room, this brunch is as much a feast for the eyes as it is for the palate. I think my travelers spend more time photographing the food as they do eating it. Of course this is all accompanied by prosecco!

A quick group picture and it was back to the country homes for a siesta and time to just grab a breather after the hustle of the last 5 days.

Before you knew it, it was 4 pm and time to make the drive back over the mountain to Cortona for a fun evening in the city famous for the Frances Mayes book and then movie, Under the Tuscan Sun. And Tuscan sun we had. Wow, what a beautiful late fall day. We walked through the main street to our restaurant at the far end of town and then turned my travelers loose to go explore. Cortona was having a street antique fair and so it was very busy, really alive and a great time to see the energy of this vibrant hill town. Our dinner reservations was at 7 pm and gradually everyone arrived and dinner was on!

I love this first dinner in the country side. Different items on the menu and the prices always blow people away. Nearly half to a third of the prices in Florence. From 70€ in Florence per person for wine and dinner to 20€ per person for wine and dinner in the countryside! No drop in quality - in fact I think the quality is better. This year we dined at the Trattoria Dardona, which is terrific. Veal porcini, wild boar pasta, and of course bisteca - amazing.

After dinner it was time for some gelato down the street, a cigar and a stroll through the now quiet and tranquil streets back to our cars and the drive home……magical.

Candelaria Design Tour Italy 2014 - Day 4 - Drive to Umbria

Ahhhhhh - the most stressful day of my trip. Putting 15 novice drivers behind the wheel who do not have a clue as to where they are going and all need to stay together in a convoy down the Autostrada! It has always been an adventure, but fortunately for me, always a successful one!  The reward is ending up at the Country Houses in Umbria and finally truly relaxing.

We started our Saturday, Day 4, with breakfast at the Hotel and then a few of us walked to the San Lorenzo Marketplace to stock up on some goodies for our trip to the country and gifts for friends and family back home. The San Lorenzo Marketplace is fantastic. I wish we had one like this in Phoenix - although I would be there everyday picking up fresh meats. fish, veggies, fruits, nuts, berries, olive oil, and of course truffles!!!! I LOVE this place! A quick cappuccino and then a little shopping and it was back to the hotel to pack up and get ready for the rental car adventure.

Ok so the first step is getting everyone checked out of the hotel as transport vans are there at 12 sharp to take us to the rental car location. Checking out went smoothly as it usually does. The transport vans were there for the most part. One made it right to the front door of the hotel, the other two were around the corner and down the street. You see around the corner here in the old part of Florence can mean a space of about 9 feet to make a turn….! So we loaded up some of my travelers at the front door and others had to hike down the busy streets to find the vans in the now crowds of people filling the streets.

So right away everyone is separated. Then I come to find they have moved the pick up location from the airport to in town. Ten years ago - in town - meant really in town. If any of you have ever been to Florence you know that driving "in town" is a big no no even for the most seasoned driver not to mention trying this with 15 novice drivers. So when I heard this my stress level went through the roof! The driver assured me it was not the "In town" location I remembered and that I would be happy with where they were taking me as it was "close" to the airport….????

So off we went - now we were all in adventure mode! As we drove I could tell we were in fact getting very close to the airport which eased my trepidation. I like the Florence airport because you virtually make one turn and you are on the Autostrada heading south towards Rome and our destination. Well our new location was just a few blocks away and underground in a nice air conditioned garage as opposed to the old airport location in full sun - so much better.

Ok then I prepared everyone with the fact that it would take a good two hours to get our 8 rental cars. I always receive a few raised eyebrows but after two hours of getting us all checked in everyone was shaking their head in awe of how well I predicted that. You see in Italy NOTHING moves fast!  As quickly as you can come to terms with that and accept that you are much better. If you expect the efficiency of America you will be disappointed your entire trip. When in Italy chill out and just roll with it and enjoy watching their dramatic banter. Every action is filled with Italian drama!

So after two hours we  had all of our cars lined up in our convoy order with Isabel driving the lead car and me navigating. We were OFF!

Oh but not too far….. we probably went about 4 blocks when the car behind us was flashing us in seemed like utter panic. So at the next stop light I jumped out of my car and ran back to see what the problem was. My rookie driver was shaking in horror ad quickly described the problem….the car would not shift out of first gear. My choice now was to try and get everyone off to the side and wait as I would drive the car back to the garage or see if I could figure out what was wrong in

the middle of a busy thoroughfare with cars honking and gesturing at us to get moving! Meanwhile my other 6 cars were behind us wondering what was going on??? Quickly, I asked the driver to get out, run up to my car and jump in on the passenger side with Isabel and I would try and drive her car and see what was going on.

Luckily, the stick was just in the wrong location and so I was able to get things going! At the next light I flashed Isabel and we did one more Tuscan Fire Drill and shifted back into our respective cars and we were off! Always and adventure…..

A quick two hour drive down the Autostrada and some of the most beautiful countryside and before we knew it we were in Umbria.  From the A1 south we take a left to Perugia and then the exit for Tuoro where we went up and over the hill and then drop down to Lusciano-Niccone Valley and our Umbrian Paradise. We stopped in the small market in Lusciano-Niccone and made that shopkeepers week.

With provisions in tow we made our way throughout the valley and then up a dusty and very steep road to our Country Houses. I love the arrival - from a luxury hotel in the busy city of Florence to these charming stone Country houses with stunning views of the valley below embraced by the hills of Tuscany and Umbria…..it doesn't get much better than this.

With everyone settled and unpacked its up to the main house Casa LaPietra for a home made meal by our host Elizabeth Wholey who runs the operation. She prepared us a wonderful meal featuring truffled hardboiled eggs, peppers stuffed with local sausage, baked figs stuffed with gorgonzola cheese and wrapped in bacon. This was followed by homemade lasagna and a salad dressed with olive oil, apple cider vinegar, and honey - the best. This capped off with pana cotta and fresh local berries…..heaven.

Ok - we made it to Umbria. From dining at the Villa San Michele the night before to dining in an old Country Farmhouse Kitchen - that is the contrast I love to paint for my travelers. Both so different, yet both so magical and amazing. Welcome to Italy!

Candelaria Design Tour Italy 2014 - Day 3 - Florence

Good morning from Italy!

On Day 3 we enjoyed everything about Florence! We started the day with a walking tour led by none other than me. I love this experience - rising before the crack of dawn and heading out onto the streets before a soul awakes. The streets are empty, there is very little sound, and the indigo light of the morning sky gradually transforms and brings this time capsule of the Renaissance into another day. I believe 9 of my travelers answered the bell and joined me in the lobby at 6 am. We were off and walked for 2 hours exploring the Piazza del Duomo, San Lorenzo Market, the Piazza Republica, the Palazzo Pitti, and the Piazza Republica along with many streets and sights along the way.

We then made our way back to the hotel for a lovely breakfast and then a group of us went for a quick climb up the Giotto's Campinile - what a work out only to be rewarded by an amazing view! All of these structures are unbelievable - the craftsmanship, the thought and engineering all constructed over several years and three architects. Started in 1334 by Giotto di Bondoneand then finished in 1359 by Francesco Talenti. 25 years to build and of course it is stall standing some 650 years later. A far cry than some of our grand stadiums that are lucky if they last 25 years! You have to love our disposable way of life today….

After the climb we took a quick pass through the interior of the main cathedral and returned back to the hotel for a quick cat nap. Then Isabel and I grabbed a quick bite and then joined 10 of us for a guided walking tour of Florence including the Accademia where of course the David is housed. We toured the Cathedral one more time - only in amazing detail, the Accademia and then the Palazzo Vecchio and the Piazza del Signoria. So fascinating to get an understanding of all the challenges and time these people went through to virtually survive and at the same time express themselves both from an artistic and political manner. Its funny how things seem so different now in modern life yet are so the same. We share the same struggles to put food on the table three times a day, protect ourselves from danger and our enemies, yet strive to create beauty along the way.

With the tour complete we all gathered for in the lobby for our trip up the hills above Florence to the Villa San Michele for cocktails on the terrace and dinner on the loggia overlooking the city. What a magical time to drive up the hill - out of the hustle and bustle of the city and to the cypress dotted hills of Tuscany. The dinner at Villa San Michele is truly a highlight of the trip. I have had the same waiter, Antenello, for over 10 years. The building was originally constructed as a monastery by none other than Michealangelo, and it is truly spectacular, sophisticated, and elegant. Belinis were served on the terrace, followed by a fantastic dinner of mushroom raviolis, salad, and sliced roast beef with a Brunello sauce. Only to be outdone by an amazing dessert. What a treat and what a contrast to dining on the streets the night before.

Candelaria Design Tour Italy 2014 - Day 1 & 2

Our trip is off to a fantastic start! A couple of my travelers unfortunately got bumped off a connecting flight as they were coming via a different route and ended up taking a tour through Germany - but they finally made it.

The rest of us all made it on time and with no luggage hiccups this year! We checked in and was able to relax, catch a quick cat nap, get some Euros from the ATM and get ready for our first full evening in Florence.




We are staying in the Hotel Brunelleschi which is the  best place to stay for the money while in Florence. It is right in the middle of all the action and is extremely convenient. The hotel was redecorated a few years ago and is just stunning - a great combination of old and modern - transitional I like to say, and they nailed it. The staff is fantastic and I have had the same staff here for me for over 14 years.






We all met in the Hotel bar for a welcome cocktail and then it was a short walk to the Piazza del Duomo and the restaurant right there on the piazza -  Buca san Giovanni Nothing better than dining right on the street with the duomo as your backdrop on your first night in Italy. We started with an appetizer mixer that seemed endless and then our main course. Ok, everyone thinks pasta and pizza when they come to Italy, but in Tuscany steak is king! The Bistecca all a Fiorentina is the way to go! I warn everyone these are big…. and yes they are! Two steaks can handle a table of 16 well my travelers must have been hungry as they order six of them! I love the looks on their faces when the waiter drops these massive steaks on a cutting board in front of them. A little chianti, steaks, the cool fall air and the duomo as a backdrop - how better to kick off the first evening???

Following dinner it was off for a nice evening stroll, a cigar, and of course a gelato. What a nice way to wind up our long day of traveling!

Candelaria Design Tour Italy 2014 – Tour 11

We are off!!!  And so we begin our 11^th tour. It’s hard to believe that I did my first tour 14 years ago with two clients. This year we have 17 travelers from several different locations from the country. I have a number of repeat travelers and some travelers who have never been to Europe.  Every tour is so different – obviously due to the people. This year I have all ages and all walks of life. That’s the other aspect I enjoy of this trip, watching the group come together and the friendships that are created.

This whole trip started with a client who wanted to have us design a “Tuscan” home. I convinced him and his wife to go to Italy and really research what a true “Tuscan” home was all about. At the same time I was working on a remodel for a travel agent. I told her of my other client’s desire to go to Italy and so she put the whole trip together for us and asked to join us. That is how it all started!

During and after the trip, my clients encouraged me to make this part of our business plan. So the next year I promoted the tour and was surprised to get 8 travelers…. The Candelaria Design Tour Italy was born! I’ve had every size group ever since from four travelers to up to 22 travelers. Ages from 8 to 75!

This year we will fly from Phoenix to Washington DC for a short layover and a chance to stretch out, charge the phones and computers, make some calls and then we fly across the pond to Brussels, Belgium. Another quick layover and a plane switch and then we move on to our final destination – Florence, Italy!

Each trip has its own challenges, joys, apprehensions, laughter, surprises, and most of all great memories. Despite all the great planning by my staff – primarily Evelyn –  things happen!!! It’s just like life. You deal with it, keep things positive, and turn what might be perceived as a hiccup into an amazing experience and memory! 

So here we go! We are off on another adventure! Follow along here on our blog and on our Candelaria Design Tour Italy Facebook Page. I will do my best to keep up with the trip and we will be adding much more video clips this year.  Next year we will go to the Amalfi Coast and Positano and Capri. So make sure you get your reservation in as the trip fills up fast during and right after this trip.

Here is this year’s itinerary:

September 24^th          Departure for Florence

September 25^th          Our arrival in Florence and dinner on the        Piazza del Duomo.

September 26^th          Our day in Florence and dinner at Villa San Michele

September 27^th          Drive to Umbria and our arrival dinner at our Country Homes

September 28^th          Brunch at Villa Piazzano and dinner in Cortona

September 29^th          Perugia and Assisi

September 30^th          Wine tour in Tuscany

October 1^st                 Farmer’s Market in Umbertide, Antique shopping, cooking class farm houses                                                  

October 2^nd                San Gimignano and Siena

October 3^rd                 Free day at the Farm Houses

October 4^th                 Drive to Lake Como and arrival at Villa d’Este

October 5^th                 Lake Como & Milan

October 6^th                 Lake Como

October 7^th                 Fly home to Phoenix

Finally, Thanks for all who attended Isabel and my American Wedding reception last week! We had a such a great time and it was wonderful to see so many of you!! We also appreciate and thank all of you for the gifts to the American Heart Association on our behalf.  Here are a few pics from that wonderful day and evening!

Ciao,

MARCO